How to Frame Paint by Numbers: Complete Framing Guide

Before you even think about framing, you need to properly prepare your finished painting. Most paint by numbers kits come with a lightweight wooden frame holding your canvas taut. Before framing professionally, you will remove it.

Removing Your Canvas From the Stretcher Frame

1. Turn the canvas face-down on a soft, clean surface, a blanket or old towel works perfectly.
2. Locate the staples or tacks holding the canvas to the wooden frame.
3. Use a flathead screwdriver or staple remover to gently pry up staples. Take your time, rushing risks tearing the canvas.
4. Gently peel the canvas away from the wooden stretcher frame, working slowly around all sides.
5. Inspect the edges for remaining staples and remove any you find.

Inspecting Your Finished Painting

Once removed, check for paint drips or spills on the back and edges. Feel for texture irregularities on the front, light brushstrokes are normal, but bumps or dried paint spills should be gently smoothed. Ensure the canvas is completely dry, and look for any areas needing touch-ups. If you need help with finishing techniques, our blending techniques guide covers how to polish those final details.

Canvas stretching is the process of pulling your finished canvas tightly and evenly over a wooden frame, then securing it with staples. This step is crucial for professional display. An unstretched canvas lying flat or loosely arranged looks amateur. A properly stretched canvas is taut, smooth, professional-looking, stable, and display-ready.

DIY Canvas Stretching: Step by Step

You will need: stretcher bars matching your canvas size, canvas pliers, a staple gun with quarter-inch staples, and your finished unstretched canvas.

1. Assemble your stretcher bars into a rectangular frame by inserting the corner joints. Ensure it is square using a measuring tape.
2. Place your canvas over the frame with the painted side facing up, centred equally on all sides.
3. Starting at the centre of one side, pull the canvas tightly over the stretcher bar and staple it to the back.
4. Move to the opposite side and pull equally tight, stapling at the centre.
5. Repeat for the other two sides, always working from the centre outward.
6. Fill in the gaps, adding staples every 5-8 cm, pulling steadily with the pliers to keep tension even.
7. Fold the corners like wrapping a present, stapling them securely for clean mitred corners.

Time required: 30-45 minutes for your first stretch. You will get faster with practice.

A mat is the cardboard border between your artwork and frame. It creates breathing room, adds sophistication, protects the art by keeping glass from touching paint, and allows flexibility to change frame styles while keeping the same mat.

Mat Colour Psychology

• White or cream: Timeless, classic, works with any artwork.
• Ivory: Slightly warmer than pure white, very versatile.
• Soft grey: Contemporary, sophisticated, works with modern decor.
• Colours matching your artwork: Pull a colour from your painting for cohesion.

Single vs Double Mat

A single mat provides a clean, simple look between artwork and frame. A double mat uses two mat boards in complementary colours, creating depth and elegance. The inner mat, typically darker or contrasting , peeks through slightly. Double matting costs 20-30% more but creates a sophisticated, intentional look.

Mat Width

Standard widths range from 4-5 cm (minimal, modern look) to 5-8 cm (most common, balanced proportions) to 8-10 cm (gallery-style, dramatic look). A good rule: the bottom margin can be slightly wider than the top and sides for a classic, grounded appearance.

The glass in your frame protects your painting from dust, moisture, and fading. Choosing the right glass type matters.

Glass Types Compared

• Standard glass: Clear and affordable. Adequate for most homes but allows some UV passage. ($10-$20)
• UV-protective glass: Blocks 99% of UV rays and prevents fading. Slight amber tint. ($25-$50)
• Non-glare glass: Reduces reflections with a softer appearance. Slightly reduces clarity. ($35-$70)
• Museum glass: Optically clear with maximum UV protection. The premium choice. ($60-$100+)
• Acrylic (plexiglass): Lightweight and shatterproof. Scratches more easily but ideal for homes with children or pets. ($15-$35)

The Glass vs No Glass Decision

Some people choose not to use glass, preferring to see the texture of brushstrokes directly. This looks modern and minimalist, reduces glare, and showcases brushwork. However, paint is exposed to dust, more prone to fading, and at risk of accidental damage. If you have added texture using blending techniques, a frameless display can beautifully showcase your work.

DIY makes sense when creating multiple pieces, experimenting with frame styles, or when you have the time and patience to learn. Professional framing makes sense when creating a gift, displaying above valuable furniture, wanting archival museum-quality framing, or when the painting is particularly special to you.